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						 Buster 
						A 
						cheap guitar speaker and amplifier that's perfect for the beginner 
						
						
							 
							 
						Introduction
						The good news - got a 
							free electric guitar - a Gibson Epiphone Junior.  
						The bad news - no 
							one plays the guitar in my house and I really don't want to spend 
							the money on equipment that may end up not being used. 
						The solution? Build 
							something cheap that can bridge the learning curve gap. If  
							nothing comes of it, it's no big loss. If someone (me?) ends up 
							loving the guitar, we can always upgrade the amp. 
						After a little 
							hunting on the internet, and a little shopping in my spare parts 
							bin, the solution became obvious. Here are the basic components 
							that make up my guitar speaker and amp. 
						
							- 
								The Noisy 
								Cricket preamp. This little gem is easy to assemble and is 
								powerful enough to drive a speaker directly for low-volume 
								(personal space) use.
 
						  - Since I 
								wanted a little more volume, I'm going to use a spare JBL PC speaker 
								amplifer from my parts bin. This is the same amplifier I previously 
						  used on my CanCan project. There are 
						  many other possible choices here. Any amp from an old PC speaker would work; 
						  as would any of the chip amps on the market. I took the path of least resistance. 
 
						  - For the speaker, 
								I'm going to use a 5 
								inch Peerless 831990 driver. I have 4 of these collecting 
								dust so I might as well put one into service. I also have a Lineaum 
								monopole driver sitting around so I'll combine the two. The result 
						  will should give more range than the guitar needs.
 
							- To house everything, 
								a simple plywood box will do. It's covered with heavy duty fabric and 
								metal corners. My only concern is with the cat - will she use the 
						  fabric like a scratching post? 
 
						 
						The picture above 
							shows the front and back of the finished amp. You can see all of 
							the controls and features (through I have not labeled them). Items 
							worth noting are: 
						
							- A top mounted 
						  		handle - collapes down when not in use. 
								From PartsExpress.com
 
						  - Heavy duty fabric 
						  and metal corners -  from PartsExpress.com
 
							- A 10 inch metal 
						  grill to cover the 2 drivers underneath - from PartsExpress.com
 
							- A 1/4 inch input 
						  jack for the guitar cord
 
							- A gain knob. This 
						  goes to the Noisy Cricket circuitry.
 
							- A tone control know. 
						  This goes to the Noisy Cricket circuitry.
 
							- A "grit" 
						  switch for the Noisy Cricket circuitry.
 
							- A green power LED.
 
							- A red pushbutton 
						  power switch on the back.
 
							- A power cord. 
 
						 
					  
						Construction
						There are two parts to 
							the build process - a 5-sided box and the front baffle. The front baffle 
							containts almost everything. The only thing that's part of the 5-sided 
							box is the power transformer and power switch. Components such as the 
							knobs can't be mounted onto 1/2 inch plywood (too thick) so they are 
							mounted on a piece of hardboard. The hardboard is then mounted into 
							the cutout on the baffle. This structure has the added benefit of allowing 
							the controls to be recessed and thus less likely to he damaged.  
						The pictures below show the 
							5-sided box. 
							Note that the original plan called for the case to have square edges. 
							After I received the metal corners, I realized that I had to round over 
							the edges with a 3/8 inch radius. This forced me to remove the screws 
							and reinforce the interior edges. The roundover was applied after 
							everything was assembled and is not reflected in the pictures below.  
						The power switch is 
							recessed in the rear for two reasons - (1) to avoid running 110VAC to 
							the front panel near the other components and injecting noise and (2) 
							to keep it out of the way. The switch is also mounted on a piece of 
							hardboard which is in turn glued and screwed into the plywood.  
						The transformer is a 
							wall-wart that's been kept intact. An old extension cord was hacked 
							so that the wall wart could be plugged into it. Should I ever decide 
							to scrapt this guitar amp, I can recycle the transformer easily.  
						
							 
							 
							  
						The front baffle 
							holds the drivers, the crossover, and the electronics. This setup 
							allows me to test everything before assembling the box. Once assembly 
							is done, there's really no good way to open up the box again so it's 
							important that everything is tested before assembly. 
						
							 
							  
						To mount the 
							electronics, a piece of plywood is mounted at right angle to the 
							baffle. The picture on the left shows the various components and 
							the wiring mess. The two small boards on the left and center are 
							the power supply and Noisy Cricket. The main transformer delives low 
							voltage AC to the JBL amp which converts it to DC and filters it. The 
							power supply  on the left takes DC power from the JBL amp board to 
							regulates it to about 9.5v to power the Noisy Cricket. It uses a 
							LM317 variable regulator to do the job. The JBL amp has 
							its volume control set to close to maximum. The tone control is 
							set to the middle position. These will remain unchanged and 
							inaccessible once the unit is assembled. 
						The JBL board is 
							mounted vertically because that's the easiest way for me to mount 
							this particular assembly. It comes with its own metal heat sink. I 
							used a small right angle bracket to connect the heat sink to the plywood.  
						I don't have pictures 
							of the crossover boards. There are two of them, one for the woofer and one 
							for the tweeter. The are mounted behind the baffle, adjacent to the 
							tweeter on either side. The woofer network is a 4th order low pass with 
							a corner at about 2KHz. The tweeter is a second order high pass at about 
							1400Hz. Tweeter response is padded with a 4.7 ohm resistor. The summed 
							response is pretty good as measured with LAUD. With an estimated internal volume of about 0.7 
							cubic feet, the predicted low end response is F3=67Hz, F10=38Hz. Not bad. 
							The upper end is a little soft as the monopole has a slight droop in its 
							response. But the treble is fairly clean and pleasant to listen to. 
						Once everything has 
							been tested and the unit is assembled, the last step is to roundover 
							the edges and apply the fabric. I used 3M #77 spray adhesive to glue 
							one continuous piece of fabric to the box. Holes were cut for all 
							openings on-the-fly and trimmed with a sharp pair of scissors. The 
							drivers were mounted over the fabric. The corners and grill were 
							installed last.  
							
						Conclusion
						
						 I am very pleased 
							with the results. The amp plays loud enough to be annoying yet can be 
							turned down for quiet playing. The unit is solid and best of all, was 
							cheap enough given the number of spare parts I already had on-hand. 
							The only bad thing is that the cat has indeed found the fabric to her 
							liking but it's really tough stuff and so far, there's been no 
							damage... yet. 
						  
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